Placeholder image

Pattern Drafting

Flat Pattern Drafting

Seam Finishes               Hem techniques

Drafting sewing patterns, often seems like a mystery to most sewists, If you have worked with commercial patterns and you have not been satisfied with the style or fit, you can easily create a pattern that is customized to your figure . While it certainly requires bit of practice and skill, you can learn pattern drafting. Here at E1S1 we will help you make the jump into pattern drafting. We are going to give you step by step instructions using original designs from Siro's Fashion in Design along with your personal measurements to help ensure proper fit. We will start with beginner patterns to intermediate patterns and advanced pattern designs.Our objective is to help you transition into being able to create your own designs

Pattern Drafting Tools

There are a few basic tools needed to draft patterns, while it would be nice if you had all the tools, you could just get by with a tape measure and a peice of chalk or pencil and some skill.

Thumbnail Image 1

Awl

pointed mental tool used to punch holes to fabric, leather and patterns paper

Thumbnail Image 1

18" Plastic Ruler

A Two inch wide ruler, it also has a 1/8th" grid pattern is good for truing patterns pieces and seamallowances.

Thumbnail Image 1

French Curve

They are varied curve rulers, they are good for armholes, necklines, darts and bustline cuves

Thumbnail Image 1

Yardstick

Wooden or mental ruler one yard in length (36" inches) help with laying pattern pieces on the grain line.

Thumbnail Image 1

Hip curve

24 inch ruler with a slight curve that give you a uniform curve from waist to the hip thru to knee.

Thumbnail Image 1

Square Ruler

A right angle ruler with 2 different lenghts, there is a Tailors which has markings to help you build standard pair of pants

Thumbnail Image 1

Muslin

Is a inexpensive fabric through which you can easily see the grain and cross grain cotton woven (Muslin mock ups should be made to help true your fit and drape of your garment)

Thumbnail Image 1

Tracing Wheel

A spoked spiked wheel with a handle used to transfer marking from paper to pattern.

Thumbnail Image 1

Pattern paper

White heavy weight paper with 1" inch grid dots. on the roll and comes in varied lenghts and widths (good subsitute is brown packing paper easy find in most office stores)

Thumbnail Image 1

Style Tape

Is narrow tape mostly use to show style lines on a dress form. it is also useful to show style line on a flat pattern to help avoid multible pencil lines.

Thumbnail Image 1

Tailor's Chalk

a peice of chalk or wax squares in several colors 1 1/2" to 2 ", helps with drawing smooth lines and also mark fabric.

Thumbnail Image 1

Tape Measure

Narrow flexible tape 60" long reversible and has both inches and metrics forms of measurements..

Here is a chart of hem types and depths used it in the industry.

These are rules that could make the differance

between a homemade garment and a professional looking garment

Garments

Hem Depth

Hem Type

Blouse

3/8" to 5/8" inches

Topstitch

Coat

1 1/2" to 2" inches

Blindstitch

Jacket

1 1/2" to 2" inches

Blindstitch

Pants/Jeans

5/8 to 1 3/4 inches

Topstitch

Pull Over

3/4" to 1 3/4" inches

Blindstitch or Topstitch

Shirt

3/8" to 5/8" inches

Topstitch

Shorts

5/8 to 1 3/4 inches

Topstitch

Skirts,Full

5/8 to 1 3/4 inches

Blindstitch or Topstitch

Skirts, Pegged

2" inches

Faced or Blindstitch

Skirt, straight, pleated or flarred

1 1/2" to 2" inches

Blindstitch

Top

3/4" to 1/1/2" inches

Blindstitched or topstiched

Slacks

Blindstitched or topstiched

Blindstitch

All Rule are meant to be bent, broken or tossed to the side. With that said always experiment and test the limits